The rail system in Germany is really really good. We don't have a 'Rail Pass' or 'Europass' as you need to be traveling every day to make it a worthwhile investment. We tend to stay from a few days to a week and we try to purchase an onward ticket as far ahead of time as we can and these can be really good value for our way of traveling. It is outrageously expensive if you buy a ticket for the same day or even the day before you travel.
Tomas on the left and Laura on the right
We arrived on a cold frosty afternoon at Offenburg station and were met by Michael and his daughter Laura. We first met Michael in Bolivia while walking the ancient Inca Takesi Trail in 1981. He is now an anaethetist. Gabi is a nurse and helps run the practice from home. Laura is in her final year of high school and is keen to do a gap year before she does any further study so we will see her one day in New Zealand. Their son Alex is still at high school.
Michael took us to the Ortenburg Christmas market where we warmed up with glühwein (mulled wine) and rum. In the centre of the square was an ice skating rink. These young ones were learning to skate using the penguin to help them get their balance. The cold doesn't stop the families getting out and about and having fun.
We walked with Gabi several times and visited the Ortenburg Castle and kept ourselves warm and fit taking different routes around the village and vineyards nearby. We enjoyed some schnapps-tasting in the village where they make it from the apples and pears they grow. We also spent some time walking beside the Rhine and through the forest where we could see France on the opposite side. When we returned home we warmed up and sweated it out in the sauna.
One evening we had rachlett- an electric plate where you fry vegetables and meat on top and then have a slice of cheese on a dish under the plate. The cheese you fill with meat and vegetables and melt it from the heat under the plate. The dish is named after a Swiss cheese and is a traditional food of the Swiss similar to fondue. A simple, and filling meal that is such fun.
Laura and her friend Tomas cooked us a four course meal one night. Tomas loves to cook and we loved being treated to prawns, fish, pork cutlets and mousse. Laura hopes that Tomas will be able to join her and visit New Zealand too.
Tomas on the left and Laura on the rightOne evening we visited Gengenbach which is well known for the world's largest advent calendar. The city was founded in the 13th century and the calendar is displayed in the 18th century town hall's 24 windows. An artist is invited each year to illustrate the windows and they are unveiled in the evenings.
Michael and Gabi took us to a small family restaurant that served traditional Black Forest food called festbar. We had homemade bread with fresh cheese and cold meats - blood sausage, some kind of brawn, and different kinds of smoked ham. Thank goodness we shared a portion as we could never have finished a serving by ourselves. The restaurant was only open some nights of the week and was full of locals.
Michael took us up into a tree farm in the Black Forest to get the family Christmas tree. The higher we drove the more snow there was. The trees were pushed through this barrel and squashed into a net so they could be easily transported in the boot of the car. 
After such hard work we went indoors for glühwein and flamme kuchen- a kind of unleavened pizza with ham. This lad decided to have his own barbequed sausage on the fire outside.
After such hard work we went indoors for glühwein and flamme kuchen- a kind of unleavened pizza with ham. This lad decided to have his own barbequed sausage on the fire outside.
