Wednesday, April 22, 2009

Petra, Jordan

The hostel we stayed in was pretty basic. There were 3 beds crammed into the small room and a teeny tiny bathroom. We had to sit sideways on the toilet as there was not enough space for our legs in front of the toilet. Next we had to clamber over the toilet in order to use the shower at the end of the room.

The best news was that Kerri's suitcase turned up so we didn't have to share my 3 tops and 2 pairs of trousers any more!

Dan got a better place further up the hill from us. On the way to pick up Kerri from the airport, we chatted to a Polish guy who had just returned from Petra and he told us about Dan's hotel, called Valentine Inn. They had a buffet evening meal with about 50 different dishes, mostly salads; tomatoes in 4 different sauces, eggplants in the same sauces, cucumbers in the same sauces and so on but it was all freshly prepared and a welcome change from chicken and rice, although they had that as well. The thing Dan liked most about the hotel other than the view, the food, and the terrace was the beer!
Buffet dinner at the Valentine Inn

We got up early and bought a two-day ticket to Petra. Our hostel manager dropped us off just before 7 so we could beat the heat and the crowds. It was a cool and peaceful morning and we were able to take photos without hordes of people in the way.


The Siq was caused by tectonic plates separating. After the long walk through the Siq it is quite a dramatic moment when you see the famous treasury for the first time all lit up by the sun above the sandstone hills.


It must have the best photographed camels in the world as well.

The Nabutaeans built the rose-coloured city of Petra in the 3rd century BC with palaces, temples, sacrifice areas, tombs and store rooms. From here they commanded the trading routes from Damascus to Arabia and spice, silk, and slave caravans passed through having to pay taxes and protection money. The Nabutaeans mastered hydraulic engineering, iron production, copper refining, as well as sculpture and stone carving.

The Romans took over in the second century AD building palaces and temples, remains of which can still be seen. A massive earthquake in 555 AD forced the city to be abandoned.

While it was cool we climbed the numerous steps to the High Place of Sacrifice


and could see many of the sandstone temples around the site.
The locals still live in the valley amongst the ruins

It was about 30 Celcius at lunchtime and we managed to find a tree with some shade near the Roman ruins and enjoy our packed lunch while watching the long lines of red-faced, sweaty tour groups trudge in.
Roman theatre
Dan and John explored a few more tombs which had cavernous rooms while Kerri and I looked at the outsides and headed home early on the first day. We walked all the way back to the hostel taking a short cut through a valley where we drenched our heads and hats in cool irrigation water and arrived back the same time as the guys who had taken a taxi!

The next day we were up early again and saw things along the Siq that we hadn't noticed the first day. The light highlights different things at different times of the day. We took the steep route with its 800+ steps to the Monastery and expected a long hard slog to the top so we were pleasantly surprised when we made it in a short time before the jewelery sellers had even unpacked their wares in the shops lining the steps.

We were able to look over the Arabian Desert Valley towards Israel. A souvenir store holder gave us a cup of cardamon tea and we chatted with him before heading down the steps again.

The worst thing about Petra is the number of horses, donkeys, camels and horse and carts going up and down the Siq and the stairs carrying goods and ferrying overweight passengers. In the Siq you have to get out of the way quickly or they could crush you as they thunder past you in the narrow walkway.

Overall we had a great time and were glad we were up and at it early to enjoy everything before the crowds arrived. The city of Wadi Musa ( Valley of Moses ), the name of the city outside Petra, is a hilly place with not much going for it and nothing to hold you there any longer than you need. As soon as we were done we farewelled Dan and caught a taxi to Wadi Rum and the desert.