Tuesday, August 19, 2008

Ohrid, Macedonia


Caught a bus into Ohrid beside the lake of the same name. The tectonic lake is one of the oldest in the world. The area has been settled for 8000 years and was known by the Greeks as Lychindos.

We booked accommodation online and stayed in an apartment not far from the centre of the old city. The owners, Tony and Gordana, were very passionate about their city and we were given a CD on the place when we left. Gordana cooked us a typical Macedonian moussaka made with potatoes, egg, minced meat, and bacon. It was served as a stew and accompanied with roasted sweet peppers as well as hot chillis.

St Clement and Naum started the first Slavic university here in the 9th century. We visited the St Clements church which is surrounded by archaeologists working on the 4th and 5th century basilica ruins in the grounds. The mosaics they unearthed were very interesting.


To get to the area we passed through the old city gates to the rebuilt 10th century Samoil's fortress and also visited the 2000 year old Roman Amphitheatre which is used for concerts nowadays.


The most photographed spot in Ohrid is probably the 13th century Sveti Jovan church at Kaneo, a short walk downhill from the fort.



In the centre of the old town is a huge plane tree that has been standing for more than 900 years. It has a split trunk and a barber shop, and a cafe were operated from it at one time in its life. Now vendors sell souvenirs around its trunk. At night this place is buzzing with all the holiday makers showing off their tans and shopping at the modern stores that line the walking street. there were some guys from South America busking and selling their CDs each night we were there. The bars, cafes and clubs are busy well into the small hours and even the supermarket was open at 11pm.



The lake has an endangered trout only found here but sadly it is still fished and you can spot it on the menu in restaurants and it is very expensive.

We caught a bus from Ohrid to the Albanian border and had to walk the few hundred metres across the no man's land between the two countries as there is no public transport.