Wednesday, June 11, 2008

Koptelovo, Russia

With our driver Sergei and our guide Katyia we drove for about 2 hours on terrible roads to an old village called Koptelovo.

The village had about 1000 people and there was a 350 year old house owned by a villager, called Babushka Katya who was still living in it until the year 2000. It is now preserved to remember the olden days. It was constructed from huge logs with an adze in the "Izba" tradition.

We were told of all the old traditions where the inside corners of the house were rounded so the bad spirits couldn't hide. There were an uneven number of windows to confuse the spirits, actually lots of the Russian houses still follow this tradition. The first window constructed was opposite the fireplace so that when the bad spirits looked in they would see the stove and be frightened by them.

The stove was made of earth and planks were set above the stove for the oldest members of the family to sleep on to keep warm. 18 family members lived in the house so it was quite crowded.

When we stepped into the house the doorway was so low that we had to bow our heads- this was to acknowledge the family.

There was an area opposite the stove for the women only and an area beside the door and under the sleeping platform for the men only.

Just inside the front door was a bench that slopped forward so you slipped off it. It was where uninvited guests sat and waited and as it was uncomfortable, they soon left.

The local guide demonstrated a 350 year old iron to us. The cloth was rolled around the round piece of wood and then it was rubbed with the flat ridged board. My sister collects irons but I don't think she has one like this.

The house had a roof made of birch bark that is still on the house today and pretty well keeps the rain and snow out. The original windows to the house were small and made from animal skins but Babushka Katya put glass windows in.

The village has a spring that never freezes and it is still used by the villagers today.

After a visit to some old sheds storing old farm machinery and tools used for cultivating wheat and potatoes we were taken on the back of a cart to the local hall where we were entertained with some Russian folk songs by the locals ladies. Most of the songs were love songs and we joined in and danced with them at the end. It felt strange just 3 people in the audience and being entertained by such an enthusiastic group but it was fun.


We ate a local meal and drank some of the local wine made from herbs and then headed back to Yekaterinburg.