Friday, June 13, 2008

Tallinn, Estonia

We left Russia by bus for Estonia. The roads from Russia were so rough that the door to the luggage bin under the bus flew open and a suitcase bounced onto the road and bags stored on the parcel shelf inside the bus fell out.

Estonia has a population of 1.32 million and they speak Estonian and use kroon (EEK) although they had planned to switch to the Euro this year. 68% are Estonian, 26% Russian, 2% Ukranian and 1% Finnish.

Estonia is famous for saunas, Skype (online communication programme) and winning the Eurovision song quest. They have also taken the world record off the Finnish for the wife-carrying world championships!

In 1989 about two million people formed a human chain across Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania calling for secession from USSR. In 1992 it held its first democratic elections.


At the Russian-Estonian border the whole bus was held up as John's passport was checked. The lamination around his photo has lifted more and it was not noticed when we entered Russian but the conscientious immigration officer was not going to let him leave the country without checking him out first! The bus driver was huffing and puffing and hassling the immigration officers and after some delay and the correct stamp we left to drive a few metres more just to stop at the duty free shop. The Estonians piled out and bought many bottles of Vana Tallinn : a kind of liquor.

John's dad was born in England so John has a British/European Union passport so he has started using that to avoid any more border problems, and will replace his New Zealand one when we get to London so he will be able to get back into NZ!


It was immediately noticeable that we had arrived in Estonia. The streets were no longer potholed and the houses were more solidly built of brick and stone, and painted.


We checked into a 6 person dormitory in the old city of Tallinn near one of the city gates. Accommodation here is very expensive but we were lucky enough that we only had to share the room with 2 other people and there were not many guests in the hostel.

We met an American called Freddie and visited some of the local sights with him.

Estonia relies heavily on the tourists over the summer months and there were about 5 cruise ships in at the port so they flooded the streets with their guides. The old city is well set out with signs everywhere giving information on the renovated historical buildings. Street stall sellers dress in medieval costumes and the square is buzzing with people at the outdoor restaurants and bars. Lots of people fly in for the weekends on the budget airlines and so it is popular for hen and stag parties.

It is cheap and easy to get around on foot or by tram or bus and the kiosks sell tourist cards with discounts on all sorts of things valid for 24 or 48 hours.

Estonia has a lot more rules than Russia: drinking alcohol on the streets here is illegal, bars are smoke-free as are public places. Everyone must drive with their headlights on during the day.

Couples kiss and cuddle in public and for us this is noticeable after Asia where it is not acceptable.

Town Hall Square (Raekoja plats) is the centre and has been since the 11th century. In the square there has been a pharmacy or apothecary's shop since at least 1422. There are the usual clocks and bell towers, churches, monasteries and courtyards of this time. It is a really pleasant place to stroll around.

There are rich merchants' houses and The Brotherhood of Blackheads - they were unmarried mainly foreign merchants.

Outside the old city walls you can see the modern glass department stores and theatres.

Some of the streets were closed to traffic and police were everywhere. We later found out that the Queen of Belgium was visiting. We also saw a small group of protesters outside the parliament buildings. Their signs said that they had had 17 years of unfair government. A couple of the locals told us that life is pretty hard in Estonia as the minimum wage and pensions are too low and fuel prices are high. This has caused many Estonians to leave the country and work in Ireland and other European cities.