Religion was banned during communism, with Albania being the world's only officially atheist state from 1967-1990. We saw several small stone churches being built along the narrow mountain roads.
Albania broke off diplomatic relations with the USSR and started on a self-reliant defence policy. 'The Commander for Life', Enver Hoxha, ordered 700,000 concrete mushroom shaped bunkers to be built. We passed hundreds of these in the strangest places; middle of the beach, in the forest, on cliffs, in front of houses. The bunkers of concrete and steel weigh five tonnes and so they cannot be moved or destroyed so they are still sitting where they were planted. The chief engineer had to stand in one while it was being bombarded by a tank to prove its worth!
The centre of Gjirokaster is like a huge construction site. The paths are being paved, the main street has been divided into two each way central lanes as well as having extra lanes beside the shops. The medians have been planted with willow trees and it will look very smart when it is finally finished. In the evening a police man had to come to the roundabout and direct the traffic as they go the wrong way around it!
In the early evening, after the siesta, the locals get out their hoses and water the paths and streets. I imagine this is to cool the area and keep the dust at bay.
In the old city we have to take care we don't fall into the uncovered drain holes and watch for potholes everywhere. Some of the cobbles are very shiny and slippery too.
On top of the hill overlooking Gjirokaster, is a fortress. It was built in several stages starting in the 6 and 7 century as a village for protection and then the fortress was built in the 12th century. It is now a World Heritage site. Today it houses a museum of World War 1 and 2 military paraphernalia and has a bar. It is not very well looked after either.
From the fort we could see the old Ottoman Turk stone and wood houses. We don't have much information on this area and will have to research it when we have time. There is nothing in English in the town and no tourist information but we think the houses are protected.
